The Ledbury – London

Originally from Newcastle in Australia, Chef Brett Graham trained with British stalwart Phil Howard at The Square before opening The Ledbury in the west London suburb of Notting Hill in 2005. The airy restaurant is redolent with discreet luxury, as is the menu, which features truffles and foie gras alongside humbler ingredients that are accorded equal respect, such as jowl of pork with fennel, mousserons and elderflower honey or the salt baked turnips served with Herdwick lamb.

The restaurant champions the best of British produce, with provenance to the fore, including Hampshire buffalo curd alongside Scottish langoustines, Middle White pork from Huntsham Farm in Herefordshire and Belted Galloway beef. Graham is a qualified deer stalker and a trip to The Ledbury during the game season is a treat, with teal, grouse and woodcock cooked to perfection. You may even find venison bagged by the chef himself, fragrant with hay smoke, beautifully presented on your plate.

Asian flavours make an appearance too, with sake enlivening a dish of Cornish sea bass and shiso adorning a starter of flame grilled mackerel, pickled cucumber and Celtic mustard, but there is nothing faddish or tricksy allowed through the discreet doorway. Graham’s refined yet gutsy food is matched by smooth and charming service that has regulars queuing up to return.