Amaranta: Toluca

Punchy flavours and a focus on pork characterise this Mexican outpost.

An hour’s drive west from Mexico City, Amaranta should be on the hit list of anyone looking to experience progressive Mexican cooking. Chef Pablo Salas applies contemporary but unshowy techniques to local produce creating big and bold flavours in the process. Amaranta’s pambacito de mole verde – part of the opening salvo of snacks – is a case in point: a tiny deep-fried sandwich stuffed with chicken and mole that packs a mighty punch.

Pig is a big focus here, and Salas isn’t afraid of the less glamorous bits. Trotter is handled with particular dexterity, sliced thinly carpaccio-style and garnished with tiny cubes of vegetables, fried tostadas and dressed with a local vinegar. Salas’ brother Francisco is the sommelier and takes an eclectic approach to food and drink pairing with as much attention paid to local beers and spirits as to wine.