Vendôme: Cologne

Joachim Wissler, a pioneer of new German cooking continues to push the boundaries. A leading light of the so-called ‘new German school’ of cooking, the highly respected Joachim Wissler breathes new life into traditional German recipes and ingredients while drawing on international culinary thinking. French, Asian and New Nordic influences can all be detected in Wissler’s avant-garde dishes as he continually looks to redefine the parameters of his nation’s cuisine, while still retaining an enviable clarity of flavour.

A two-part suckling pig dish on the epic tasting menu comes with green and yellow curry sauces, made with char-grilled bananas and fresh lime, plus a bean and chorizo stew. Other stand-outs include a reinterpretation of the northern German dish labskaus using cod fillet and cod cheek brandade, while steamed pear with white kombu ice cream and ginger jelly is a homage to Escoffier’s classic dessert poire belle Hélène.

Housed in a former nobleman’s house that is part of the historic Schloss Bensberg hotel, diners enjoy views over the bay and Cologne cathedral. The bright, airy dining room combines granite and stained glass with stereotypically polished service. Meanwhile, the wine list features more than 900 bottles from a comprehensive selection of German and French vineyards, as well as more obscure choices such as plum-infused sake.